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P4 (C1) Move back into the crack, which is now 1/2 - 3/4 inch, and climb to bolted anchor. Route follows crack system in the center of this steep face. BY PAM POWERS Senior Editor sidiary of Micom Systems in April 1985. E2 In another small flurry of excitement, word went out again recently that T. Product, existing on paper but not humming away on anyone's shop floor, so far as we can tell. Vendors lacking a diverse product line will experience difficulty cracking.
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain. RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st.Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls.
These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings. This route is, well, super. Climb up the side of the detached flake (1.5 or 2 Friend) through the awkward crux (maybe 10c) to a top-of-the-flake ledge right below the crack. Although decent gear is available, groundfalls have occurred here, so heads-up. Climb the crack (sustained 5.9) for 80 feet, past the roof to a bolted anchor.
While I typically don't like to give away the detailed beta, I'll make an exception here: hand jam, foot jam, hand jam, foot jam. The crack widens a bit for the last 15 feet, so depending on the size of your mitts, you may have to revise this beta to include a cupped hand or two, and maybe even a fist.
A 60m rope will just barely reach from the anchor for the rappel/TR. While it probably goes without saying, TR through draws and not the anchor. While getting onto the pedestal is definitely the technical crux, the hardest part for me is just enduring to the anchors.
I have relatively small hands and the #3 Camalot-sized crack feels insecure and drains me. I think this is a MUCH harder crack than the Incredible Hand Crack (which is trivial except for the overhanging twenty foot section) and much harder than the perfect #2 Camalot crack of Generic Crack. I also find it harder than any other 5.10 crack that I have done in this area - mainly because of my hand size, but also because there is no chance for rest (unlike many of other 5.10 cracks like Generic Hand Crack, IHC, Gorilla Crack, Keyhole Flake, etc.) Hence, I think the crack itself is solid 5.10, not 5.9. Your hand size (and opinion) will vary, of course. Nov 29, 2001. Now, Charles. 'heavy and slow' is our motto.
I followed Bernard up this climb (he of the oversized rack in the photo below), and he placed exactly 3 #3 Camalots. The first was quite tight, and a #2 (Camalot) would have worked. Nonetheless, you're probably right, and I should modify my gear beta above by recommending that you take 3 or 4 #4 Friends, and two 3.5 Friends.
Just take 5 or 6 #3 Camalots. As Charles notes, these fit better than anything in the upper section of the climb. I'll start off by saying i haven't done a great deal of climbing in indian creek: but i did truly enjoy leading this route. In my opinion, it is definitely a classic and a must climb for the creek. A lot of climbers have added good and valid info about this climb, some of which i agree with, some of which i don't. That's the double edged sword of mountainproject- everyone can speak their mind, but don't ever take anything on this site as absolute. It is my opinion that: getting onto the pedestal is the technical crux.
Protect the technical crux as to not hit the ground (#2 with a runner works well, avoids rope drag) if your hands are perfect for incredible hand crack- this will feel bigger if so-wear long sleeves or go to work with nasty scabs (but be proud!) before the roof- #2 camalots fit perfectly after the roof you won't need anything but #3 camalots- i think i had 5 have fun Jun 20, 2007. The third pitch of Supercrack is excellent.
Bring triples of #00 and #0 tcus and doubles of the other small sizes and you'll be protected. I would call this one of the better Wingate stemming corners. The crack is too small for your fingertips but there are lots of small holds and the rock is perfect so the tiny cams seem good to whip on. Go straight up off the belay, through the thin crux and to a stance where you can either go straight up on crumbly rock with no gear or traverse left on a ramp and head up the next crack system. Once you summit, you can walk back right and rap straight down the plumb line of the first two and a half pitches. There are two fixed anchors above the one everyone usually stops at. Bring two ropes.
I did this route just once, in 1996 or 1997 or so. I led it onsight, by the light of the full moon and my headlamp (no led lamps back then, sadly).
I could swear the guide at the time listed it as 5.9 or 5.9+. So, I took a pretty casual attitude towards it. I remember being sketched out of my mind on the moves up onto the pedestal.
In no small part because I could not see what I was doing at all. The moonlight was blocked, and those old school little headlamps were weak sauce. After 20 minutes of hemming and hawing, up and down, I finally committed and got past that part.
The rest of it was a pretty surreal experience. I don't remember the crack proper feeling any harder than say, Reed's direct. But, I have big meaty hands. I do remember thinking the whole experience felt very hard for 5.9, but I chalked that one up to doing without sunlight. The next night we did the Kor Ingalls in the same style. That was a very interesting road trip.
Jan 29, 2014.
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(E2) was founded in 1988 to deliver environmentally focused services related to water and wastewater. Since then, the firm has grown and broadly diversified to provide engineering, environmental consulting, oil and gas pipeline engineering, infrastructure operations, and remediation-related services. Since the firm’s founding, the management team has balanced growth with fiscal prudence, resulting in a solid, financially stable business, sustained growth, and loyal clients and employees. Canadian Integrity Management Services ULC (CIMS) is a subsidiary of E2 Consulting Engineers, Inc., USA, which was established in 2016 to further support E2’s Oil and Gas, Utilities division north of the lower 48. CIMS will follow E2’s successful model to deliver our clients solutions.
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